Saturday, August 6, 2011

Everybody is Searching for Something: Peru 2 Weeks (Part 1 The Jungle)

When examining how one thing differs from another, there can arise a tendency to assign value and priority, to proclaim one reality better or more important than another. In what follows, then, we need to remember that this particular journey aims not to compare in order to put down, but only to identify the differences between distinct realities, each of which is valuable and useful. -The Spirituality of Imperfection

After two days back in Chile and two weeks in Peru, I’m viewing my memory reel in reverse, scrolling backwards in an attempt to process everything. The thing is I’m certain that processing my Peruvian experience could take an extensive period of time; the lessons I learned are elusive and ineffable and exist beyond immediate perceptions. I’ve found answers but have yet to figure out the questions.

After 5 months in Santiago I was in desperate need of a vacation. Some people think that Santiago is an escape and a vacation on its own. However, at the end of the semester the stress of living so far from home felt like a case of bricks pressing down on my spine. The little things really do add up and my seams were slowly coming unraveled. Trying to communicate in Chilean Spanish is a constant battle that leaves me lost in translation and makes everything more difficult than it would be normally. Fighting the apathy of my students was becoming more than I could handle. Feeling cold from the moment I woke up to the moment I went to sleep was getting hard to ignore. The horrific smog was giving me chronic chest pains. Not being able to leave Santiago for such an extended period of time left me feeling trapped and with a strong case of wander lust. It goes without saying that I was stoked and felt extremely fortunate to have the opportunity to travel to Peru for 2 weeks. I would not only get to escape Santiago but would also get to see a different South American country, allowing me to make more extensive cultural comparisons.

Since writing about everything in one blog post seems nearly impossible, I’m going to write about Peru in segments and start with the jungle experience or the first part of the adventure. On July 22nd, I flew out of Santiago and into Lima. Immediately the airports, crazy traffic/driving, innumerable markets, and lack of police in Peru appeared haphazard, even more so than in Chile. On July 23rd, I woke up early to catch a flight from Lima to Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado. We were picked up by our personal tour guide Albert, who would spend the next 3 days and nights with us, teaching us not only about the mysteries of the jungle but also the natives of the area. We traveled on a small boat down a giant river for an hour to a lodge in the Amazonian Jungle where we would make a home for the next few days.

We only had electricity from 6pm-10pm, so we quickly became accustomed to going to bed with the sun and waking up at around 4:30 am to the sounds of howler monkies (similar to the sound of a lion or alien ship). We took cold showers, slept in mosquito nets and a film of humidity clung to us like saran wrap at all times.

On the day of our arrival, we went on an unplanned dusk to darkness night walk. Albert pointed out (I’m sure we didn’t see a lot) the only night monkey in the world, a wolf spider, a snail snake, a tree frog, and a tarantula. The sounds we heard when the sun disappeared were unbelievable, and the noises included anything from grasshoppers to copious birds to things you hear on a rainforest CD to things only the imagination can create when being flooded by adrenaline in the dark. On the second day we woke up early and went to a natural reserve for a long walk where we saw red and black army ants, leafcutter ants, and even the infamous bullet ant (if you don’t know what that is look it up)! Then we got in a canoe and saw parrots, parakeets, macaws, kingfishers, swallows, spider monkeys, bats, and butterflies that drank fluids from the eyeballs of turtles. Of course this list is incomplete and is only intended to paint a partial picture. That night we went to Monkey Island and were lucky enough to see a small, cute squirrel monkey and feed brown, white and hybrid capuchin monkeys. Apparently, they will choose Oreo’s to bananas when given the choice. On the way back to our lodge, we rode along the river at night. We spotted capybaras (an animal that is cross between a rat and a pig—they are the biggest rodent in the world!), white and dwarf caymans (omnivores that remind me of alligators) and more stars than I have seen in years.

The next morning we woke up at 4 am in order to visit the clay lick where hundreds of parrots, macaws, and parakeets feed. That afternoon, we walked across a high canopy and zip-lined through the jungle. While walking through the jungle on our way to the high bridge, we caught a glimpse of the largest termites on the planet moving their home with their rarely seen queen . Then, we ate lunch, rested in hammocks and went kayaking down a huge river (“Madre de Dios"). Our final night in the jungle, we ate a delicious dinner and then drank a drink translated as “7 roots.”

I’m certain that if spirituality was a place, it would live in that jungle. I saw dead animals being eaten, eggs being hatched, and fungus making a home in fallen tree branches. Everything in the jungle was not only giving but receiving in a beautiful balance of reciprocity and interconnectedness. The pace of life was slower and seemed more natural than the disconnected fast paced life I lead. There were fewer possessions, no internet or TV, and therefore a lot of time to ruminate about life. Surrounded by the cycle of life and intricate breathing trees, something inside me shifted in a positive way. I felt in awe to be part of such a cycle but also insignificant. I left the jungle suntanned, radiating, and feeling at peace with life’s natural order.

I’m going to jump ahead to the end of our trip for now, because that sense of peace was put to the test yesterday. The day after we got back to Santiago, David was followed from the bank after cashing his check, and he was robbed at gunpoint during the middle of the afternoon. He had over 800 dollars stolen, an expensive utilitarian Patagonia jacket taken, his credit card, Chilean ID and sense of security all looted. I was wary about the rampant poverty in Peru and was completely caught off guard yesterday. I’m happy that he is safe but am left wondering if there is a lesson to be learned between these extreme contrasting experiences.

(CLICK ON "THE JUNGLE" LINK TO SEE THE PICTURES AT YOUR OWN PACE AND NOT CUT OFF)

Haiku

Live the jungle life

Have airless realizations

Make a circle home

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